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OAK CLIFF JANUARY 2010
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Smoke
Fort Worth & Sylvan
214.393.4141
In a way, Smoke is elegant and polished. Its glamorous fireplace is a good place to find a comfy seat, sip champagne and have a snack. In another way, the place is like a favorite pair of old cowboy boots. At a table by the same fire, diners share pork spare ribs over a couple of cold beers. Floorboards creak. Old wooden pallets mix with art on the walls. Random family photos smile out from their frames. “The silverware doesn’t match all the time,” says chef/co-owner Tim Byres. “We aren’t taking ourselves so seriously.” Smoke, which opened at the Belmont Hotel in September, serves breakfast, lunch and dinner with a focus on cooking from scratch, serving locally produced and small-batch food, and generally doing things the slow way. It has a 1-acre organic garden out back. Bread and jams are made in-house. The recipes are simple, and cooks let the food speak for itself. Most impressive is the charcuterie work. Byres and staff make whole-hog barbecue. They cure ham and bacon in an onsite smokehouse and string up yards of sweet paprika and fennel seed sausage. “Everything we do is old-fashioned. And it is really cool because it does have this family reunion kind of feeling, and that’s by design,” he says. “This place is not fancy. But we try really hard to deliver on the experience.” —Rachel Stone
THREE MORE PLACES TO WARM YOU UP
1 Jack’s Backyard
Jack’s has great live music, and the bands
sometimes play on a stage near the outdoor fire pit.
Fort Worth&Pittman
214.741.3131
jacksbackyarddallas.com
2 ConFusion
To enjoy the fireplace at this Thai/Vietnamese
restaurant, just grab a seat on the patio.
Davis&Van Buren
214.943.5660
3 Eno’s Pizza Tavern
While there’s no actual fireplace at Eno’s, the pizza oven is visible from the cozy, candlelit dining room.
Bishop&Seventh
214.943.9200
enospizza.com
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